Two articles of interest recently appeared in The New York Times. The first was “Ski Lodges, the Innkeepers of Tradition” (published February 1, 2009) and the second was “Critic’s Notebook: Restaurants Stop Playing Hard to Get” (published February 3, 2009). Given my age on this planet, I was unaware that before the advent of ski condos and urban high-end restaurants opening country cousins in the mountains, that “…once, going on a skiing vacation meant checking into an all-inclusive lodge where, in addition to sharing a bathroom down the hall, you shared all your meals in the dining hall as well as fireside tales about your daily adventures, often over a game of Scrabble.” (Vershup, Amy. “Ski Lodges, the Innkeepers of Tradition,” The New York Times, February 1, 2009.) This experience seems to foster personable intermingling and getting to know fellow visitors and guests. The other article chronicling the new trend of haute restaurants “hugging the customer” (Bruni, Frank. “Critic’s Notebook: Restaurants Stop Playing Hard to Get,” The New York Times, February 3, 2009.) might finally signify the end of the “hellish and humbling” restaurant experience for everyone.

Chateau Belleview
Tucked a bit down slope from Route 23A just before entering Tannersville from the west, Chateau Belleview is most recognizable by its Tudor Revival (a style enormously popular in the 1920s and 1930s, and became fashionable again in the 1970s and 1980s) beige and brown half-timbered façade, steeply pitched cross-gables and petite windows. The interior stays with the mock medieval theme—the main dining room a pastiche of a suit of armor, several deer heads and one solitary elk head above the fireplace, finely minted wrought iron chandeliers of various circumferences, gold embossed platters and several swords all conspiring to elicit a sort of Gothic Hunting Lodge atmosphere. The interior is cozy, its floors entirely carpeted and comfortable mocha leather chairs with ornate wrought iron scrolled legs and feet surrounding tables bedecked in white linens and topped with hurricane candle lamps and red and white carnations in heart shaped vases. Several healthy specimens of peace lilies in polished copper pots serve as greenery and also providing spatial definition within the main dining room. Mocha is the predominant color, as is brick red—the entire east facing wall is bricked from timbered ceiling to carpeted floor. This is décor fit for winters and rich repasts. The music is a mélange of ‘80s Top 40 pop, Julio Iglesias and Edith Piaf. There is a large outdoor deck, which was covered in several inches of frozen snow and ice when I visited, but in summer offers a panoramic view of the mountains.

The hosts, Gérard Uhrik and his wife, Josiane, have been the owners and operators of the Chateau Belleview for twenty years, but the Chateau Belleview has been at its present Tannersville location as a restaurant for nearly thirty five years. Chef Gérard is a Paris native and Josiane is originally from Brittany. Before moving to the Catskill Mountains, Chef Gérard was the chef at Bistro Bordeaux near Madison Square Garden and received two stars from then New York Times food critic, Mimi Sheraton. His menu at Chateau Belleview is forthright and kept to several reasonable offerings for each of the headings of Hors d’Oeuvres, Poissons et Viandes—respectively appetizers, fish and meats. The bread basket offered warm crusty rolls. The specials for the evening were plentiful: Avocado Half Stuffed with Crabmeat in Thousand Island Dressing; Mesclun and Goat Cheese Salad with Apples, Walnuts and Cranberry Dressing; Venison Kielbasa Served on a Bed of Warm Lentils; Asparagus Puff Pastry with Cheese Sauce; Chicken with Wild Mushroom Sauce; Pork Chops prepared Chef’s Style; Cod Fish served—your choice—with Sorrel Herb Sauce, Lemon Butter Caper Sauce or with White Wine, Lemon, Butter and Almonds. The Pasta of the Day was Giant Ravioli with Chicken, Rosemary and Provolone in a Vodka Sauce. I had to ask Chrissy, our and the sole server that night, to repeat the specials and then to see her shorthand notation in order to make sure that I recalled them all and correctly.

For appetizers we ordered the Caesar Salad—dressing made to order sans anchovies—the Venison Kielbasa and the Home Made Country Pâté. The Romaine was chopped up bite-sized and lightly dressed—rich yet not weighty. A dusting of fresh chopped chives added brightness to the salad. The venison kielbasa was presented sliced thin, skin crackling, succulent and piping hot over the lentils. The country pâté was mild in comparison and served with cornichons, shredded cabbage and shredded carrots. A little plate with a fat crock of moutarde encircled by butter crackers also accompanied the pâté and the mustard actually coaxed some more flavor from the pâté—a nice touch. Other appetizers: Melon Prosciutto; House-Smoked Salmon with Diced Onions and Capers; Mussels Chateau Baked with Garlic, Butter and Parsley; Escargots Bourguignonne, Carpaccio of Filet Mignon; Warm Garlic Sausage Served on a Bed of Lentils, and French Onion Soup.

Each entrée is served with your choice of a soup or salad. I opted for the soup which was a Cream of Vegetable, wonderfully flavored, not overtly thick and creamy. The salad of mesclun and grape tomatoes was dressed simply with a good quality olive oil. In between the soup and salad course and the main meal, a petite scoop of rainbow sherbet was presented to us in a wine glass. I asked if the chef made the sherbet. Alas – no was my answer. I’d ordered the Grouper Grenobloise in a Butter, Lemon and Caper Sauce and by the time we arrived at the main courses, I was sufficiently stuffed with the richness of the appetizers and the soup that I only managed a few bites. The fish was sufficiently light and was perfectly cooked—moist and firm in the lemon and butter sauce that was a bit pink but endowed with many capers. The other main course we tried was the Duck served in a Raspberry Sauce, a very generous portion of duck leg and breast, which was incredibly moist and flavorful. The vegetables that night were whipped turnips (at first glance mistaken for whipped potatoes), a medley of corn, shredded carrots and squash with fresh thyme, French green beans (the long thin types) and wild rice with bits of barley. Other entrees include Filet of Sole Amandine sautéed in Butter, Lemon and Almonds; Shrimp Scampi or with Cajun Spice; Surf & Turf—Lobster Tails and Filet Mignon; Chicken Breast St. Tropez served with Garlic White Wine, Sun Dried Tomatoes and Shiitake Mushrooms; Steak aux Trois Poivres—sirloin with Black, Green and Pink Peppercorns, Cream and Brandy; Filet Mignon “Bercy” with Shallots and White Wine Sauce; Veal Scalloppini served with a Marsala and Mushroom Sauce, and Boeuf Bourguignon simmered in Red Wine.

Desserts are numerous and include Crème Brulée, Raspberry Mousse, Chocolate Lava Cake, Chocolate Spoon-Lovin’Cake, Triple Chocolate Cake, Strawberry Calcut (akin to Crème Brulée but with strawberries and cream), Fresh Strawberries with Whipped Cream or Crème Fraîche, Mixed Berries with Whipped Cream or Crème Fraîche and Sautéed Strawberries with Grand Marnier over Vanilla Ice Cream. The Chocolate Lava Cake was decadently rich and molten in the center and surrounded by mini-mountains of whipped cream crowned with blueberries, all drizzled with raspberry and chocolate syrup. The Raspberry Mousse, all pink and frothy lightness was a delight after the rich meal.

Chateau Belleview is located at 6589 Route 23A in Tannersville, NY. Reservations are recommended; phone 518 589 5525. Chateau Belleview is open nightly for dinner from Wednesday through Sunday starting at 5 pm.