Is time capable of softening, whittling down, transmuting the harsh profane into something more sacred—at the very least something elegant? The Red Onion in Saugerties is housed in a building that was, according to Kevin Katz, the chef and part owner along with his wife, Rochelle, and their long time friend Jamal Mahdavian, a former bordello replete with a murdered courtesan. “Locals frequently mention ‘The Ghost,’ a female apparition that some claim to have seen in past years coming down the stairs—probably the spirit of a prostitute who was found naked and dead in a snow bank when this building was a 19th century bordello.” Interestingly and perhaps historically appropriate, the walls of The Red Onion—open since June of 2002—are painted a deep red, the sort of color that received much care with numerous coats of glazes and paints that imbue it with a resonant depth. Black and white photos by the Woodstock based PhotoSensualis team of Mike Russ and Sally Williams grace the walls.

Chef Kevin’s culinary credo involve dishes that are “exciting and satisfying. Foods that you crave. I enjoy eating foods that are boldly executed: Piquant, Rich, Citrusy, Fatty, Luxurious, Salty, Funky or Bitter. I always try to balance two or more of these sensations on a plate so that when you experience, for instance, a very rich and fatty dish, it has equal elements of citrus and bitter. Each element alone will tire your palate, but when balanced correctly, the entire composition becomes really exciting to eat.”

And the menu is certainly exciting—agreed. Stylish and sexy. Absinthe is listed on the drinks menu and served poured over a sugar cube and ice with water. The first concoction that captured my eye upon entering was a singular martini glass frosted to perfection and containing something crystal clear and green-ish. Perhaps the Apple Martini made with Rain Organic Vodka and Green Apple Liquor? The bar is the centerpiece and focus of the restaurant and offers a distinctive Libations (an homage to Steely Dan) Menu with offerings like Fresh Squeezed Ruby Grapefruit Margarita, Blood Orange Bellini, Henrick’s Honey Lemon Martini, Black Currant Martini and Hot Apple Cider made with Tuaca Caramel Liquor and Cinnamon. Beers hail from Belgium, Germany and the U.S., with an emphasis on microbreweries like Red Hook, Stone Mill (organic) and Matilda. The wine list is a mix of wines from France, Italy, South Africa, South America and California. “Currently, my favorite wines are from the Rhône in France, where funk and earth and fruit are balanced with good acidity and astringent tannins.”

The first dish we ordered was the Spicy Thai Beef Salad—rare cooked Filet Mignon with mint, cilantro and onion. Earlier that day, my dining companion Elyssa told me: “I’m skipping lunch so I have plenty of room for the Spicy Thai Beef Salad.” Before sampling said dish, this remarked passed by me unnoticed. Après sharing a portion (I would gladly and gluttonously have had my own plate) with her, next time I dine at Red Onion, I too, will skip meals in order to indulge in this creation. Presented on thinly sliced cucumber rounds, the rare cooked beef was an artful composite of the filet and a generous handful of fresh cilantro still on the sprig. The hot (spicy) and effervescent sauce was true Thai—clear and light yet remarkably nuanced—and the cilantro added bursts of summer freshness. Other appetizers include: Flat Grilled Sesame Calamari with Spicy Asian Slaw and Peanuts; Hummus Plate of Chick Pea and Tahini Puree with Eggplant Relish, Herbed Goat Cheese, Olives and Grilled Bread; Pâté de Maison—pork and duck liver country pâté with Olives and Coarse Moutarde, and finally Steak Tartare, which is made to order with Traditional garnish, Truffle Oil and Croutons.

Lenny B’s Locally Smoked Trout Salad was next. For those still woefully ignorant, Lenny B makes the most delicious hot smoked trout in the Catskill Region. He hot smokes his fish at his smokehouse in Wittenberg. Hot smoking imparts a robust flavor usually lacking in cold smoked fish. Plus, hot smoking precludes the need for any sort of artificial stabilizers or colorings. The Red Onion Lenny B Salad is a flavorful and textural assemblage of Smoked Trout, Watercress, Frisée, Pecans, Gala Apples and Buttermilk-Horseradish dressing. The pecans and the smoked trout complement each other exceptionally well. The thin strips of peeled Gala apples offer refreshment and juice amidst the heady combination of trout and pecan. The demure buttermilk-horseradish dressing was a surprise—we were expecting something raucous and overtly creamy. Other salad offerings include: Roasted Beet Salad with Citrus Vinagrette, Ricotta Salata, Fennel, Red Onion and Mint; The Red Onion Caesar with Hearts of Romaine, Red Onion, Avocado and Garlic Croutons; Belgian Endive with Candied Walnuts, Anjou Pears, Bleu Cheese topped with Whole Grain Mustard and Honey Vinaigrette, and a White Winter Salad of Frisée, Belgian Endive, Shaved Fennel and Cucumber tossed with Lemon Juice and Truffle Oil.

Chef Kevin says that “as much as possible, I use local produce. It’s fresher and is more economical. Migliorelli Farm in Tivoli, The Story Farm in Kiskatom and RSK Farm in Prattsville are on my short list. I also use Lenny Bee in Mt. Tremper for his delicious smoked trout and Catsmo for their unequaled smoked salmon.”

Mac-n-Cheese might be a dish as American as apple pie. It is certainly something I never pass up on a menu. Chef Kevin sends his out—still bubbling—in a hot crock, browned cheese sallying forth over the brim. The four cheese sauce is indeed rich but not overwhelming. Elyssa and I fork dueled for last bites.

Seven entrees are offered. We ordered the Duck Shepherd’s Pie and the Vegetable Curry. Although it contained duck meat rather than cow meat, the Shepherd’s Pie had the requisite Shepherd’s pie taste. In other words, the duck wasn’t a forceful flavor note but the dish was immensely comforting. Instead of the traditional mashed potato topping, Chef Kevin graced the dish with mashed root vegetables. The Vegetable Curry—chunks of al dente cauliflower, carrots and broccoli and green beans—was again done in a Thai curry style with cilantro and an aromatic light cream sauce. Other entrees are: Scottish Salmon Filet over Creamy Braised Savoy Cabbage and Bacon, Sautéed Oyster Mushrooms and Local Potatoes; Braised Pork Shoulder with Reduced Natural Juices over Rosemary-White Bean Puree & Sweet and Sour Cabbage; Seared Jumbo Sea Scallops over Leek & Mushroom Risotto, Sautéed Spinach, Red Wine Reduction and Truffle Oil; Grilled Rib-Eye Steak with Bleu Cheese Butter, Red Wine Sauce, Grilled Onions, Spinach and Whipped Potatoes, and a good, old fashioned Hamburger—seven ounces of All Natural Ground Chuck Steak on a House Made Bun with Hand-Cut Fries and topping options like Cheddar, Gruyère, Bleu Cheese, Slab Bacon, Grilled Red Onion, Avocado or a Grilled Portobello Mushroom.

Several sides are available, including Whipped Potatoes, Slow-Cooked Broccoli Rabe, Caramelized String Beans, Grilled Jumbo Asparagus, Sautéed Spinach and Hand Cut Fries with Aioli dipping Sauce. We ordered the Caramelized Green Beans, which were sautéed to brown and served with garlic and oil.

And now on to the desserts. There are nine entries from which to choose. The White Chocolate Banana Bread Pudding with Whipped Cream and Caramel Sauce was served as a moist triangular wedge. The surprise was the the bottom layer of creamy white chocolate. The Maple Ginger Apple Crisp arrived warm in a ramekin with Vanilla Ice Cream that had already commenced to melt and send rivulets of cream amidst the crumble. The predominant flavor was ginger—Elyssa loved it but I found it too pronounced. Other dessert options include a Flourless Chocolate Marquis (a type of chocolate mousse) served with Cranberry Sorbet, Whipped Cream, Chocolate Sauce and Candied Walnuts; Ultra Fudge Brownie Sundae served warm with Espresso Ice Cream, Whipped Cream, Candied Walnuts, Chocolate and Caramel Sauce; House Made Ice Cream and Sorbet; Affogato—which means drowned in Italian—an Espresso with Vanilla Ice Cream and Amaretto; House made Biscotti, or a Plate of House Made Assorted Cookies.

The Valentine’s Day menu wasn’t fully prepared at press time but Chef Kevin did mention that “there will certainly be offerings of some firm, plump raw oysters!”

The Red Onion is located three miles east of the Village of Woodstock at 1654 Route 212 at Glasco Turnpike in Saugerties. For more information, phone 845 679 1223 or check the Web site at www.redonionrestaurant.com. The Web site includes daily “Stay In the Black, Dine at the Red” specials such as Tuesdays, when diners receive 30% off the wine by the bottle, or Thursday’s $13.95 Chicken Dinner, or Friday’s Fish and Chips for $19. The Red Onion serves dinner nightly from 5 pm until 9 pm and Sunday brunch from 11 am until 3 pm. It is closed Wednesdays. The menu changes daily, so be sure to check the Web site.