Some years ago—in my recent past—I recall reading about homemade mayonnaise and homemade baking powder and also, homemade marshmallows. The book was The Gift of Southern Cooking by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock. My surprise was great. Make your own mayonnaise? How peculiar. You mean, mayonnaise was something that a humble home cook could concoct, not some high tech combination that only Hellmann’s was cognizant of? Ms Lewis and Mr. Peacock went on to extol the virtues of homemade mayonnaise: “Whenever my MeMaw—my maternal grandmother—would prepare her potato salad for holiday dinners, she’d first make mayonnaise. Though we had plenty of jarred mayonnaise and Miracle Whip dressing on hand (and used them lavishly), I realized then that a special dish needs fresh mayonnaise made from scratch…why is mayonnaise so important? It’s the ingredient that pulls all the elements of a dish together—not just binding them physically but unifying all the flavors as well.” (Lewis, Edna and Peacock, Scott. The Gift of Southern Cooking. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2003. p 57.)

There is a saying that “God is in the details,” and so it seems too, with cooking. Taking the energy (care) to prepare something like mayonnaise, which is not ordinarily a rarefied culinary ingredient such as a cut of Kobe beef or a pouf of foamed sea urchin or Toro at Masa, does actually elevate the entire presentation to new heights. The little detail of homemade mayonnaise is the proverbial cherry on the frosting, a sort of gastronomic gold leaf gilding.

Oak Hill Kitchen
I know what Lucy must have experienced stepping through the back wall of the wardrobe in The Lion, the Witch and The Wardrobe. It is the sense of transport into magic, the wonder of a world separate from the gray, mundane, the ordinary. In this case, the ordinary was the mottled gray brown of the adjoining parking lot in late autumn and the magic was the warmth and amber that radiated the moment I opened the door to the two story bell-towered Victorian building that houses Oak Hill Kitchen.

The interior space—a giant open room that runs the length and width of the building—has within it several smaller spaces and nooks on different levels that seem to grow, quite naturally out of the walls which are for the most part sheathed in woodwork. There are regular tabletops, yes, but the booths are the most intriguing, their tabletops formed of irregular slabs of wood sanded and finished to a high gloss. The wood color itself recalled golden honey. No two booths are identical: the tables and enclosed benches are different shapes and dimensions. Some booths are just big enough for a cozy tête à tête, others are large enough to squeeze several people. One is even covered by a rustic wood roof that resembles something a Keebler Elf would be happy to call home. The lampshades—constructed out of simple wood fruit baskets—are charming. Stained glass windows break up the large walls and allow light into unexpected recesses. The building, named The Lyman Tremain Odd Fellow Hall (for Lyman Tremain, a local Oak Hill dignitary and former New York attorney general who was integral in exposing and breaking up Tammany Hall in New York City), once functioned as an opera house. Open for four years, the Oak Hill Kitchen is owned and operated by members of The Twelve Tribes, a spiritual community of believers who “woke up this morning with one thing on their mind…to love their Creator with all their heart, mind, and strength, and to love one another just as He loved them.” Love. A front page article in the The Voice, a Twelve Tribes newspaper free for the taking at Oak Hill Café, states: “We need a paradigm shift, a fundamental change in how we relate to the earth and its resources” and also talks about how humans are becoming “more and more alienated and independent of each other.” These two statements have recently been issued in various forms or another from many other sources—scientific, holistic, agricultural, spiritual. There is hope, then, since so many different people seem to agree on these two things: Love and a new respect for Nature.

My first glance at the menu picked up on numerous mentions of “a hot steaming roll.” Vaguely, I recalled in a long ago issue of Gourmet how, somewhere in the Midwest, hamburgers—buns and all—are steamed and how the Road Food couple, Jan and Michael Stern swooned at the magisterial taste. After tasting a hot steamed roll at Oak Hill Kitchen for the first time, I understand the swoon. The steam infuses the roll with air and heat and moisture transforming the sold, corporeal dough into an enchanted thing of light and taste. The Salmon Sandwich is described as “a baked fillet of wild salmon with our own house dressing & mayonnaise, topped with tomatoes, sprouts & cheddar cheese, served on a hot steaming roll.” This sandwich is one of those rare compositions of warm—salmon and roll—and cool—homemade mayonnaise, dressing and tomatoes—and crunch—sprouts. Halfway through the sandwich, the dressing soaked the roll and began a delightful and tasty trickle down my fingers.

Order whatever soup special is available on your visit, not only because it will no doubt be delicious but also because it comes with a thick slice of whole wheat bread that is steamed and bathed in butter—a combination unlike anything experienced prior. As a matter of fact, it is so wonderful that if a spa offered a service that would steam me and bathe me in butter, I’d comply with joy. Cheddar broccoli soup was the special the night we visited and was delightful: brothy, with a just hint of cream and cheddar and many al dente broccoli florets. The other special that night was a Lemon Pepper Chicken with Couscous, Salad and Fresh Bread; we decided, however, to order from the regular menu. The Turkey Wrap was homemade, the wrap itself of a thinner, more pliant—almost fluttery—texture than the commercial wraps so prevalent today, the lettuce crisp and cold, and the entire wrap accented with homemade Caesar dressing. Many items—like the mayonnaise—on the menu are homemade. “We serve real food, using only the finest wholesome ingredients. From our fresh-baked whole-grain breads, garden salads, to our delightful homemade desserts, everything is made from scratch and with care. Good food takes time to prepare.”

The menu is divided into Salads, Wraps and Sandwiches, and menu items are basic: Chef Salad, Greek Salad, Chicken Caesar, Garden, Turkey Wrap, Chicken Caesar Wrap, Turkey Sandwich, Turkey Reuben, Chicken Sandwich. The exceptions are the Salmon Sandwich and the Deli Rose: “our own creation of smoked turkey, melted pepper jack and mozzarella cheese, hot ketchup, tomato and onions served on a steaming roll.” Oh—and then there’s the very enticing Peanut Butter, Banana and Honey Sandwich.

There is no alcohol on the menu but the drink list is extensive. Coffee (a bottomless cup) is organic and shade grown. Espresso is offered. Yerba Maté teas proliferate and include a Maté Latte, Maté Cappuccino and the Common Ground, the café’s namesake drink comprised of roasted maté, carob, mint, honey and cream—thick and sweetly pungent. Maté is a non-caffeinated herbal stimulant. The café is named Common Ground in homage to the folkloric tale of the Prince and the Pauper, “two unlikely characters who have been brought together on common ground.” Again, in the explanation of the café’s history is the mention of love. “For there is truly only one way for the barriers that have divided humanity for thousands of years to be broken down in reality. It is through expressing a love which lets us see beyond our differences into the hearts of others.” This is the season for hot apple cider and the Oak Hill Kitchen has it. Pellegrino and Virgil’s Microbrewed Cream Soda, Vanilla Cream Soda and Root Beer are in the cooler case.

Desserts offered include a Muffin (daily surprise) steamed with butter, Carrot Cake, Apple Crisp with Vanilla Ice Cream, Cream Cheese Pie with Strawberries, Ginger Cookies and Maple Cream Pie. We ordered the Carrot Cake and the Cream Cheese Pie with Strawberries that were drizzled with honey for extra sweetness. The carrot cake was moist with fine spice nuances and traditional cream cheese frosting that had a hint of honey. The winner, though, was the exceptional cream cheese pie, the cream cheese fondant collapsing in exuberant folds over the crust. I also ordered a raspberry blueberry muffin to have later at home, although I suspect that the muffin sans steam is not quite as heavenly. Loaves of whole wheat bread with or without nuts and seeds, muffins and cookies are available to take away. The bread comes sliced and is very delicate. Handle gently. Toast lightly. Make sure your butter is warm as not to tear the bread when spreading.

The Oak Hill Cupboard features a selection of dry goods—mostly tea and body care—for purchase. The majority of the tea is from the Maté-based line called Maté Factor, with some offerings from Celestial Seasonings and Choice Organics. Both Maté Factor and Common Sense—an all-natural body care line of lotions, soaps and creams—are Twelve Tribes brands and manufactured at Common Sense Farm in Cambridge, New York. All products in the Common Sense line are free of synthetic preservatives, fragrances or colors. Products include Castile soap body washes in Almond, Lavender and Mint. Please visit www.commonsensefarm.com for more information.

Oak Hill Kitchen also serves Brunch from 10 am until 12 noon daily and all day Sunday. Brunch items include Belgian Waffles made from whole grains, served fresh and hot with lots of real maple syrup and butter, Fruit Salad, Quiche of the Day and Muffins made from organic spelt flour, steamed and served with butter.

Live informal music is featured on Monday nights from 6 pm to 9 pm and neighbors and visitors are welcome to bring their instruments.

My friend Joe (an ex-Bronx-ite), dubious of Oak Hill Kitchen’s claim of being open twenty four hours from Sunday at 10 am until Friday at 3 pm (it closed Saturday to observe the Sabbath) asked a server, Amida, what sort of clientele do they get at 3 am? “Is there a truck stop nearby?” he asked. The reply: “We are open all night for travelers seeking a good meal and warmth.” The Oak Hill Kitchen is located at 7771 Route 81 in Oak Hill, New York. They are open 24 hours starting at 10 am on Sunday to 3 pm on Friday. For more information, please visit www.oakhillkitchen.com or call 518 239 4240.