My New York City childhood was a childhood spent internationally—especially concerning food. My taste buds, continually challenged to meet and accept new textures and flavors, awakened an open-minded palate and, quite organically, a liberal attitude toward cultures and peoples of the world. My first encounter with a box of Veniero’s pastries occurred at a dinner party in a cramped Alphabet City apartment. I was about twelve and have ever since sworn culinary allegiance to the pasticceria on East 11th Street. On occasion, I’ve dragged bleary-eyed out-of-towners directly from Kennedy Airport to Veniero’s and plied them with a pound of assorted Italian pastries to keep them company in desolate, non-pastried hotel rooms. My mental stability was oft questioned in the ride down the FDR but once cannoli or Babas au Rum was ingested, my culinary mental bearings (at least when food was involved) were never again doubted.

My mother, who worked for Columbia Presbyterian for twenty five years, unwittingly introduced me to Latino food. Numerous lunches we’d meet at any one of the Cuban or Puerto Rican establishments around 168th Street and Audubon Avenue. Plantains and flan secured a place in my gastronomic memory bank. Flan—a sort of molded egg custard bathed in a diaphanous caramel glaze—prompted sighs of ecstasy from more than one member of my family. I was never that impressed until recently, at Café Mezzaluna in Saugerties. Truth be told, I opted to order the bread pudding and the raw chocolate ganache. All credit goes to my dinner companion, Elyssa Mastel, who ordered the flan despite my dismissive attitude toward the dessert. The flan at Café Mezzaluna is a thing of unearthly delights. Angels concocted this dessert. Café Mezzaluna in Saugerties might play host to angels but the café is a haven of human warmth, friendliness and comfort food with bold Latino influences.

The lavender double-gabled building that houses Café Mezzaluna sits in a peculiar stretch of Route 212 on the Saugerties outskirts that is neither entirely residential nor industrial but a quirky pastiche of both. The room is open and casual and brightly painted in hues of red, purple and green. The tables are all different: some round, some rectangular, some having chile pepper runners, some bare. A low wall encloses the dining area from the lengthy counter and refrigerated drink coolers. The drink choices can make one agog, and include all sorts of waters, both gaseous and still, juices, teas, coffees, ginger ales and nectars. I opted for a Pellegrino Limonata. For appetizers we ordered a White Cheese and Guava Pastelillos: a Puerto Rican empanada. The pastelillos was sweet from the guava and creamy from the cheese all wrapped in a lightly friend pillow of dough. The Tostones—another appetizer—of double friend plantains arrived with a Mojito sauce of garlic, cilantro and oil that was mild compared to the chipotle sauce served with the pastelillos. Perhaps the green color of the Mojito Sauce rekindled memories of spicy Mexican tomatillo salsa. Other appetizers offered on the dinner menu are Chile Relleno, Queso Blanco Frito and two other flavors of pastelillos—Roasted Veggies and Goat Cheese and Ground Beef. Four different types of soups are available: Black Bean, Tomato, Chicken Vegetable and Vegetarian Chili. Almost immediately the two dishes that intrigued us were the two most authentic Latino sounding: Tinga and Pastelon. Mery Rosado, the owner of the café, explained that these two dishes are traditional Puerto Rican fare. Tinga—shredded spicy chicken with onions, chipotle and spices—was served over rice with black beans. The chicken was expertly spiced, spicy and flavorful. The Pastelon, a sort of Puerto Rican version of lasagna, was downright homey and comforting with flavorful as opposed to hot spicing. Pastelon is layers of spiced ground sirloin, baby sweet peas and egg served over rice. Two types of beans were offered: red and black. Mery explained that red beans were more typically Puerto Rican and so I chose the red beans and delighted in their stewed, almost sweet, warmth. Other entrees include Grilled Salmon With Rice and Beans or over Avocado Salad, Tilapia sautéed in butter over Spinach with Rice or over Mixed Green Salad, Chicken Enchiladas topped with Homemade Tomatillo Sauce and Mozzarella, Chicken Fricassee with Tomato Sauce with Potatoes and Carrot Served Over Rice, Chicken and Chocolate Mole Wrap with Rice and Beans. Burgers and paninis are also available for dinner.

Desserts offered are the aforementioned Flan or a Flan Cheesecake, several varieties of Homemade Gelato, Homemade Bread Pudding—flavors change often—and a Raw Foods Organic Ganache (several different flavors). The flan—creamy, smooth and not cloyingly sweet—was the star of the dessert menu. The Raw Foods Chocolate Ganache offered that night were Chile or Mocha and I opted for the Chile. The concoction arrived in a cactus shot glass and carried a dose of heat so pronounced (especially after the heat of the Tinga) that I couldn’t finish the small serving then but had to take it home and finish it over several hours later when my taste buds had sufficiently cooled. The Chile Ganache contains no dairy or refined sugars and is made with Youngling organic oils and spices. The chocolate is raw and I was told by our server that raw chocolate aids in liver cleansing. The apple cinnamon bread pudding was a fine dessert—thick and sweet and softly bready.

Cafe Mezzaluna also features a more casual menu of Build Your Own Deli-Style Sandwiches, Burgers and Hot Sandwiches. Burgers are quarter-pound, 90% lean ground sirloin served on homemade buns. Varieties include not only Plain and Cheeseburger for the traditionalists, but also the Saugerties Burger—a turkey burger, the Woodstock Burger— a Veggie Burger, the Blue Mountain Burger with Blue Cheese, Spicy Chipotle Burger and a Burger Latino with Bacon, Sautéed Jalapeño, Avocado and seasoned with Chile Peppers and Cumin. Paninis made with homemade breads, wraps and salads are also served. Café Mezzaluna Specialty Sandwiches are the Sandwich Cubano with Pressed Roast Pork, Ham, Swiss Cheese, Dill Pickle and the Café’s Special Mojito Sauce or the Smokin’ Chipotle with Barbecued Chicken, Grilled Chicken, Bacon, Melted Cheddar on Homemade Roll. All Sandwiches are served with homemade potato salad, macaroni salad or chips.

Every Sunday from 11 am until 2 pm Cafe Mezzaluna serves brunch with special musical guests. The brunch menu includes Eggs Benedict Mezzaluna: a Cornmeal Patty Stuffed with Mozzarella Cheese, Poached Eggs, Spinach, Canadian Bacon topped with a Chipotle Hollandaise Sauce (also available with Smoked Salmon); Smoked Salmon Frittata; Huevos Flamencos: Onions, Carrots, Baby Sweet Peas, Garbanzo Beans and Chorizo sautéed in a Tomato Sauce topped with Two Eggs Sunny Side Up and Ham; Huevos Revueltos en Salsa Verde: Scrambled Eggs in Tomatillo Sauce, and more traditional gringo fare like an Apple Omelets or a Special Country Breakfast. Other breakfast items include Chile Relleno Omelets, Breakfast Burrito, Western Burrito, Chile Relleno Quesadilla and Toodlum Breakfast Nachos: Black Beans, eggs any style, Homemade Salsa over Nacho Corn Chips.

Café Mezzaluna also hosts local poets, writers, artists and musicians. Karen Whitman’s linoleum block prints were on display in September. Special events included World Poetry Café – Bobby Katz hosted by Jose Peralta and Will Nixon, Jules, Rick Orchestra. The most recent exhibit opened September 27; entitled Three Women, Three Visions, it features the work of Fran Gorofalo, Linda Gordetsky and Eileen Camuto. Check out Café Mezzaluna’s Web site for updated information about special events.

Satisfy your palate. Feed your soul. Nourish your spirit. Café Mezzaluna Bistro Latino is located at 626 Route 212 in Saugerties. It is open Tuesday through Thursday from 8 am to 4 pm, Friday and Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm and Sunday from 8 am to 3 pm. For more information, please visit www.cafemezzaluna.com or call 845 246 5306.