Stepping into the Entrance Hall, visitors are immediately transported to a world of order, repose and the history of life that the upper-middle class 19th Century gentry lead. The glow from the quartered oak floor, walls and staircase is illuminated by the natural light pouring through the Tiffany stained glass windows that frame the double wide entrance doors and the light flowing through the Tiffany windows at the first landing of the staircase, as well as the entire outer walls leading to the second floor of a stunningly constructed home.



The first floor of the home is open for tours from May through October, Thursdays to Sundays from noon until 4 pm. The last tour is at 3:30 pm. Located in Rhinebeck, NY on 35 acres with breathtaking views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains, Wilderstein's history began in 1852 when Thomas Holy Suckley built the original Italiante villa that he named The Cedars.



Construction on The Cedars commenced on December 23 with the digging of the cellar and continued throughout the winter on the house, a barn, a stable and an icehouse. Thomas Suckley anticipated the work to be finished by May, however, due to inevitable construction delays it was November before the family set up housekeeping. In the meantime, Catherine, Thomas' wife gave birth to their first son, Rusten on July 3.



The Cedars was designed by architect, John Warren Ritch and was meticulously planned as a haven and place of respite from the family's activities in New York City. It was a dwelling designed for comfort and efficiency; it reflected the elegance of style needed by a family of the Suckley's station in life. As planned, the exterior was elegantly simple. Thomas chose to concentrate on the creature comforts of the interior and in lieu of an elaborate outer display, invested wisely in the interior amenities and spacious rooms. The downstairs featured a light flooded drawing room next to the dining room, connected by wide sliding doors that when opened created a space that was more than 40 feet in length. The upstairs had four bedrooms, two dressing rooms and a bath. There were two smaller rooms in the attic for servants. The kitchen was located in the basement and was connected to the first floor butler's pantry by a staircase. Today, this space is used as a workroom and will eventually be turned into a gallery. Although not in use, one of the two original Prizer-Painter coal furnaces, built by The Stone & Heating Company of Reading, Pennsylvania still stands in a small basement room.



Thomas Suckley was 42 years old when The Cedars was built. He and Catherine would have three children, a second son, Robert, and a daughter, Mary. Catherine Murray Bowne and Thomas Holy Suckley's union was exceptionally happy. He called her "kitten" and she him, "dear Tom". Robert, their second son was born on June 5, 1856 and their daughter Mary, who was called Kittie, on September 18, 1860. Thomas celebrated with joy for the blessing of his family and displayed his affection in words and deeds. The family enjoyed entertaining and there was a constant flow of friends and relatives through the house.



The grounds of the Cedars were planted with many varieties of fruit trees, including apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, quince and apricot. The gentleman farmer, Thomas, also had numerous types of vegetables planted. It is felt that about this time the name of The Cedars was changed to Wilderstein, meaning wild man's rock, in German. The name is a reference to the Native American petroglyph that is carved into a ledge on the grounds below the house.



The family's comfortable fortune had been secured by Thomas' father, George, who was originally from Sheffield, England. He emigrated to the United States in 1784. George Suckley's business ventures included trade in such items as teapots and surgical instruments along the coast of the US, South America and the West Indies, as well as real estate holdings in New York City and several surrounding cities. George Suckley's wife, also named Catherine, had a lineage directly connected to the Beekman and Livingston families and was in possession of a considerable amount of land in Northern Dutchess County.



George Suckley died in 1846 and the family's fortune was managed by his elder son, Rusten, for whom Thomas' first son was named. Both Rusten and Mary Suckley remained single, only Thomas married. Rusten maintained a primary residence at 103 St. Mark's Place in New York City, a family home frequented by Thomas even during the Civil War, which had little impact on transportation between the Hudson Valley and New York City, due to the efficient train system of the day.



Thomas' sister, Mary, died in 1872, his brother Rusten in 1875, and his beloved mother in 1879. Tragedy struck again when Mary Rutherford Garrettson, the trusted family friend from whom Thomas had bought the land on which Wilderstein had been built, died that same year. There was a deep void in Thomas' life and he directed his love and need of family to his son, Robert.



Robert Suckley experienced his own sorrow when his beloved brother Rusten died at age 12, a result of a fall from a tree. During his remaining years, Thomas became more and more of a recluse, choosing to spend his time at Wilderstein where he was attended to by faithful servants, in lieu of the society life of New York City that had been so much a part of his earlier years. He became interested in the local school and contributed monies to worthy charities. He died on February 9, 1888.



Upon his father's death, Robert inherited a considerable fortune. He had begun to date Elizabeth Philips Montgomery in 1882 and, after a bumpy courtship; they married on October 24, 1884. They spent the next two years in Europe on an extended honeymoon. Their first son, Rusten, named for Thomas' brother was born during their time in Switzerland (the family would spend an entire decade in Switzerland from 1897 to 1907) and, upon returning to America, they were expecting their second child. Upon arrival in the US, they settled in a rented home in Orange, New Jersey. Their second son, Henry Eglinton Montgomery was born on February 18, 1887.



At the time of his father's death, a third child was on the way and Robert was intent on moving to Wilderstein, but only after he had the Italiante villa transformed into a stunning example of the Queen Anne style. Arnout Cannon, Jr., an architect from Poughkeepsie, NY was engaged and plans developed for the transformation of the structure. The original building was altered, a third floor was added, a wrap around porch on three sides, a dramatic porte cochere as an extension of the main entrance, a north wing for servants and, perhaps, the most dramatic change was a five-story round tower. On the first three floors the tower provided an extension to interior rooms, with the top two floors revealing unparalleled views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. The entrance hall was greatly expanded in the Queen Anne tradition, complete with stamped leather wall coverings. Joseph Burr Tiffany was retained to plan the interior transformation that included the hall, the staircase, the dining room, the library, the drawing room and the parlor and the upstairs rooms.



Extensive work was planned for the infrastructure systems of the house, including the plumbing, heating and wiring. Electricity was already in use in New York City and Wilderstein would become one of the first homes in the Hudson Valley to use the new technology, complete with plans for his own power station. The house was also fitted with one of the first burglar alarm systems. The new roof was made of red slate tiles. When restoration of Wilderstein began replacement tiles were mined from the original quarry, Hill Top State Company in Granville, NY.



On September 1, 1888, Elizabeth "Bessie" Suckley gave birth to a third child, a son named Robert after his father. Robert and Elizabeth Suckley would bring seven children into the world, including a set of girl twins. The family continued to live in Orange, NJ in a home that had purchased, while work on Wilderstein continued at a rapid pace. The exact date of the family's move from Orange to Rhinebeck isn't known. It is known is that the furniture from the New Jersey home fit perfectly into the layout of Wilderstein and very little additional furnishings were needed. The major exception was the White and Gold Salon.



Tiffany had envisioned this room in the style of Louis XVI and Bessie helped to choose its d‚cor. After arriving at a reasonable price, the rooms furnishing were ordered from Pottier and Stymus in London and included a table, two cabinets, two ladies' chairs, three reception chairs, a sofa and an armchair. Silk damask was order for the window draperies and a set of sliding wood doors was installed between the Parlor and the Salon. Both of them are downstairs rooms that are open to the public and are a contrastingly magnificent warm and inviting space. An added feature of the Salon is a lovely circular ceiling with a hand painted mural by H. Siddons Mowbray that brings a refreshingly airy openness to the room.



Calvert Vaux was given the contract to execute the landscaping for the augment Wilderstein. In partnership with Andrew Jackson Downing, Vaux had created the open spaces of the park between the Capitol, the White and the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC. He also initiated the design competition for the building of Central Park in New York City, shepherding the plans of Frederick Law Olmsted through the process, as well as contributing to the Greensward Plan that won the competition. He was also instrumental in the creation of Morningside and Riverside Parks in New York City, Prospect Park in Brooklyn and Downing Park in Newburgh.



Vaux's plans for Wilderstein transformed the acreage into a casually structured series of paths for walking from one location to another and designed for optimal convenience and maximum communion with the natural surroundings. Today, visitors are afforded the opportunity to meander along the trails that begin at the parking lot, next to the Gate Lodge and spend time strolling to Umbrella Point, the Ravine Trail, Boathouse Road, Cove Point and the Hudson View Path. Walking on the Lawn, visitors experience many of the original 1,091 shrubs and 41 trees, including redbud around the larch, three hydrangea in the back of the house, two ginkgo and a large clump of fringe trees on the entrance drive. There are black locust trees planted in the entry circle.



General admission is $7, $5 for students and children under 12 years of age are admitted free for the house tour. Three additional first floor rooms are open to visitors at Wilderstein, the Library, Dining Room and Parlor. A peak at the Butler's Pantry reveals a vintage crank telephone and the call box that was used by the family members to ring for servants. This space was where the last child of Robert Suckley, Margaret, would have breakfast and afternoon tea each day toward the end of her long life. Its a cozy room and remains today exactly as it was when Margaret Suckley enjoyed sitting at the table during meals, watching the birds outside.



The Library, just off the Entrance Hall is warm and comfortable. Visitors can image the hours spent by Robert Suckley reading children's books to the younger kids and then Ralph Waldo Emerson to them when they became older. There are many fascinating features in the Library, including three magical small stained glass windows and a watercolor of the Statue of Liberty that hung in the Oval Office during the time that Franklin Delano Roosevelt was president. He and Margaret had been close friends. She was one of the people with him at Warm Spring, Georgia when he died in April 1945.



Their friendship was without pretense and Daisy, as Margaret was nicknamed, was relaxed and naturally herself around President Roosevelt. Daisy had gone to work for her Aunt Sophie as a secretary and when her aunt died, Daisy wrote the President, who would sometimes come for tea at Wilderstein, about her situation. He arranged for her to work on his family papers that were being prepared for the Hyde Park Presidential library. Daisy gave the President a Scottish terrier, named Fala who was very often seen with him at public appearances. After Daisy's death on June 29, 1991, at the age of 99, the President's letters to her, along with her diary, were found in her bedroom and turned into a book, Closest Companion, by Geoffrey C. Ward, Roosevelt's biographer.



The Parlor, decorated in the Colonial Revival style, is situated next to the White and Gold Room is where the family would gather around the piano to sing hymns and spend relaxing afternoons and evenings. The original wall coverings are remarkably preserved and lend a graciously atmospheric touch to the room. The plaster ceiling is an absolute work of art. The Dining Room, located at the end of the Entrance Hall, is a study in the use of wood to create a sense of intimacy and elegance. Family coat-of-arms is carved into the massive mahogany wood mantle piece of a magnificent fireplace that catches the eyes of visitors as they enter the room. The room's stain glass windows that allow masses of light to fill the space are also embellished on the top panes with additional coat of arms.



All of the downstairs rooms, including the Entrance Hall, have fireplaces that are designed as a perfect complement to the d‚cor. The challenge for visitors to Wilderstein is to absorb the amazing complexity and attention to detail that Robert Suckley orchestrated to transform the original structure. An initial tour can leave a visitor breathless and eager to return again and again.



Wilderstein is in the process of an extensive refurbishment process. The outside work has begun with the porte cochere, a massive pyramidal structure at the main entrance; restoration of the exterior of the building has included researching the original 1889 paint colors and stripping the 1910 brown paint from the exterior, replacing the dullness with the excitement of pleasingly brilliant color; extensive work on the five-story tower - a feature that makes Wilderstein one of the most unique homes along the Hudson waterfront. Landscaping of the grounds continues and the North Porch has been restored. There is a great deal of work to be done to bring Wilderstein back to its original beauty, including the restoration of the Carriage House. The hope for this space is to turn it in a gallery, banquet hall and conference center. The Icehouse and Potting Shed are slated to be reclaimed and the Veranda of the main house continues to receive an exhaustive reclamation.



Wilderstein's restoration is due in large part by a group of 200 volunteers who tirelessly donate their time to help bring a National Historic Landmark back for the enjoyment and historic value this grand home deserves. The grounds are free to the public and open year-round from dawn until dusk for hiking, walking, relaxing and simply spending time communing with nature. Wilderstein participates in the Hudson Valley Ramble, held annually. It is a perfect location for a group tour during regular hours, or at other times by special arrangement. The house and the grounds offer an elegant natural setting for weddings and receptions and the Wilderstein Web site provides links to all of the services, located nearby, needed to create special events. It is also a spectacular location for photography shoots and is a natural setting for movie making.



Wilderstein Preservation is a private not-for-profit educational institution and receives no federal or state monies for operating expenses. It relies on the generosity of individuals and fund raising events to carry out its vital work. Wilderstein does actively pursue governmental and private foundation for the restoration work. Education is a major focus of Wilderstein and its library and archives is being prepared for general use. At present, researchers can contact the Wilderstein Preservation office or e-mail the Chair of the Collections Committee to request access to its archives. Please consult the Wilderstein Web site for additional details.



This marks the 150th anniversary for Wilderstein and many special events are planned. Please refer to the side bar next to this column for a detailed listing of tea seminars, a gala ribbon cutting ceremony, Rhinebeck Day, Cabaret Night, and other not to be missed activities. Please check the Wilderstein Web site for announcements regarding the 150th Anniversary Celebration that will begin in October 2002.



Wilderstein Preservation


PO BOX 383


330 Morton Road


Rhinebeck, NY 12572


845 876 4818 - Telephone


845 876 3336 - Fax


E-mail: wilderstein@wilderstein.org


Web site: www.wilderstein.org



150th Anniversary Special Events


Tea Seminar


July 20 - 2 to 4 pm


Lecture by Leila Philip author of A Family Place

$20 - Reservations Requested



Gala Ribbon Cutting


July 27 - 4:30 pm


Official Ribbon Cutting Ceremony for newly restored Porte Cochere


Cocktail Reception - 5:00 pm


Gala Dinner - 6:30 pm


Free - Ribbon Cutting Ceremony


$50 - Cocktail Reception


$250 - Cocktail Reception and Dinner


Reservations Requested for Reception and Dinner



Tea Seminar


August 10 - 2 to 4 pm


Lecture by Joseph E. Persico entitled Franklin Tells Daisy: Confidences Between the President Roosevelt and Margaret Suckley


$20 - Reservations Requested



Rhinebeck Day


September 21 - 11 am to 3 pm


Annual Event for the Rhinebeck Community


Food, Tours and Outdoor Enjoyment of Trails and Grounds


No Admission Charge



Cabaret Night


October 18 - 7 to 9 pm


Cocktails, hors d'oeuvres and performance


$20 - Reservations Requested



Tea Musicale


October 20 - 3 to 5 pm


Tea, Refreshments and Entertainment


$10 general admission; $3 children



Thanksgiving Weekend Tours


November 29 and 30 - 1 to 4 pm


House Museum Open for Tours



Holiday High Tea


December 7 and 14 - 1:30 to 3:30 pm


Celebration featuring traditional holiday cakes, delicate open-face sandwiches, seasonal music and Suckley readings. House Museum Tour included.


$25 - Reservations Requested



Victorian Holiday House Tours


December 7, 8, 14, 15, 21 22, 26, 27 28 and 29


$7 for general admission and $5 for students; children under 12 years of age are admitted free